A pleasant eccentricity runs through this small ‘brasserie de luxe’, from its Art Nouveau-styled interiors, spiked with modern and slightly outlandish flourishes and carefully retained elements of the listed building that was once a historic pub, to the patron himself, while incorporating the menu and a few other elements along the way. Thierry Thomasin, from Gascony, heart of foie gras and Armagnac, was schooled at Le Gavroche and has achieved many accolades for his expertise in wine. An instantly recognizable figure, and he drives the service brigade towards excellence with passion and (some say) ferocity.
Even the position of this restaurant – next door to Hyde Park Stables and just a short trot from the park itself – is slightly odd. While the area boasts some very smart residential addresses and is also quite central, it also has some pretty dodgy hotels and unattractive elements. But despite all this, Angelus seems to work and has a distinct and enjoyable charm.
The signature dish is foie gras crème brulee – sounds weird but again seems to work, like so many other aspects of Thierry’s French refuge.
Bayswater area – 4 Bathurst St., W2 2SD, Tel. + 020 7402 0083
Opinion – Foodsessed on Angelus restaurant in Bayswater:
Expertly prepared French classics with a twist, (like the “out-of-this-world” foie gras crème brulee) are complemented by great wines at this cosy Bayswater brasserie; the “lovely” chandelier-lit surrounds and excellent service make it ideal for couples on a cold winter’s night, but be prepared, excepting the brilliant lunchtime set-menu deal, such quality comes at an expensive price.